Katoomba to Mittagong, NSW

Katoomba to Mittagong from Fantrails on Vimeo.

The big-time classic spanning the Blue Mountains and Nattai National Parks, walking from Katoomba to Mittagong is one of NSW's great hiking challenges.

Below is a suggested itinerary to take, across six days.  In reality, there are many different ways and paths you can take on this walk and this is only one of many. I would warn off in-experienced hikers from attempting this, the majority of it can be walked on fairly well defined paths, but 15-20% is on barely discernible 'paths' where extreme bush bashing and navigating is a must.  The caretaker at Yerranderie told us that the hike used to be quite popular in the 80s & 90s, but these days he only sees a handful of people doing it a year. I found that quite surprising.

We didn't use a GPS (it broke on the drive out to Katoomba), but taking one would be a good idea. Also a good idea is to hire an emergency beacon from the NSW National Parks office in Blackheath before you set out. It's free, how amazing is that?!?

We had all the available topo maps and a section from Bushwalks in the Sydney Region: Volume 2 by Lord, S & Daniel G to guide us.



Katoomba to Mittagong - Track guide

Day 1 - Narrow Neck – Medlow Gap (17.5km)

Day 2 - Medlow Gap – New Yards (34.6km) – 17.1km walked

Day 3 - New Yards – Mt Feld (51.7km) – 17.1km walked

Day 4 - Mt Feld – Nice Camp Site (73.4km) – 21.7km walked

Day 5 - Nice Camp Site – Colleys Flat (90.6km) – 17.2km walked

Day 6 - Colleys Flat – Wattle Ridge (111km) – 20.4km walked

Day 1 – TAROS LADDER

After being dropped off close to the Golden Stairs just south of Katoomba, walk along Narrow Neck until Taros Ladder (15km). Bring 10m rope/cord to lower heavy packs down Taros Ladder if you're not feeling too confident. We managed it fine despite being as top-heavy as a pair of tortoises, taking our time and making sure of each hand and foot placement before committing. 

Descending Taros Ladder with 30kg packs

Follow track approx 2.5km over Mount Derbert and then down to the cleared campsite of Medlow Gap (17.5km) to spend the first night.

Day 2 – COX RIVER/MT COOKEM

Head off past a locked gate (west), follow service road until you reach a track on the left-hand side which winds down to Kelpie Point on the Cox River. (Beware of red-belly black snakes in the long grass.) Use your judgement on conditions once at the river. It is possible to call Sydney Water ahead of time to find out the depth.

The clear, cold waters of the Cox River

For us, the water depth at the crossing point was about 1.5m, we ferried our stuff across in waterproof stuff sacks then had a long lunch on the south bank of the river. Bring a pair of thongs or sandals for river crossings. Smooth river rocks hurt dainty city feet!

Our guide book wrote “look for a track that starts behind a tree”...however, there are a lot of trees. Using your topo map, walk along the river bank until it makes a sharp turn east. From this point, start traversing up the ridge of Mt Cookem...you'll eventually come across the track. After an hour or so of hard slog, you reach the top of Mt Cookem, hurrah!

Take a right on the service road at the top, enjoy the ease and openness of open track walking because you'll be doing it for the next day and a half! You are now on Scotts Main Range. If it is getting late, an adequate campsite can be erected at an intersection with a service road (28.km), however I would recommend pushing on to the Church-owned property of New Yards at 34.6km (turn off to the right). Those kind folk offer hikers the use of their cabin to stay overnight – for free. The cabin has running water complete with shower and flushing toilets, a roaring fireplace...and even an orange tree out the front! Letting hikers stay here for free is one of the last kind acts you'll see these days, so treat the place with care. We re-stocked the cabin with firewood before we left.

Photo from: http://www.mitupela.net/gnw/mittagongtokatoomba.html

Day 3 - SCOTTS MAIN RANGE

Long day walking along the Scotts Main Range. It's a fire trail so there's not much to say. There are plenty of waterholes on both sides of the trail which are utilised by the RFS. The water is pretty brackish and nasty so I wouldn't recommend people drink it. I drank it though, after putting some purification tablets, and it was fine enough. Make camp in a small clearing next to the road at the turn-off to Mt Feld (51.7km).

There's a lot of this on Day 3.

Day 4 – YERRANDERIE

At 56.6km we came to a sharp bend east in the track. At 58km we crossed Butchers Creek (centimetres deep), refilling our water bottles as we went. At 60km there is a RFS fire base. The facilities aren't as welcoming as those at New Yards, with signs reading “No Trespassing” written on the doors, but there is water and a nice camping area available here if you're desperate. (If you do feel the need to trespass, not all the doors are locked ;).

RFS fire base

Mt Yerranderie in the distance

Continue on and you'll soon be greeted with sights of Mt Yerranderie, an impressive looking hunk of rock with vertical walls on three of its sides. I would love to know if anyone has developed routes there.

At around the 65km mark, you've reached the 'ghost town' of Yerranderie. Don't be spooked though, it is a lovely little spot to have lunch and have and poke around into a by-gone era. Don't expect any crowds. We arrived the day before Anzac Day and there were three families spread across a camping ground the size of a couple of football fields...this was the peak period! There are 10 abandoned silver mines within 2km of the town centre if you not too tired to check them out. The Old Post Office was closed for refurbishments when we were there, but there are plenty of other old buildings to check out.

Try and find the caretaker and have a chat. Watch for leeches!

Pass the airstrip and Old Court House on the way out of town, get into a staring contest with some of the 100s of kangaroos if you want.

Head east across Basin Creek at 68.7km. At Old Twin Peaks (69.6km) note a turn off to the south which would take you to Oberon. Keep heading east. A Sydney Water locked gate blocks the path at 73.4km, however, 200m before this there is an obvious clearing on the left hand side of the road (GR Nattai 48750E, 19400N). Walk down this clearing and you will be greeted with perhaps the prettiest campsite of the entire walk.

Glorious sunrise enjoyed in our own special ways...

Day 5 – BELOON PASS

Leave Nice Camp Site, wind your way up and down along Sheepwalk Drive for about 6km. You will have to jump from stone to stone to cross the Jooriland River. The land begins to clear and you are eventually treated to spectacular views of the Wangaderry Tableland. It is both impressive and intimidating, thinking you'll be up there somehow in a couple of hours. Look for the obvious weakness in the clifftop walls, that is Beloon Pass.

Beloon Pass in the distance

About 2km after crossing the Jooriland River, you will reach the mighty Wollondilly River. The crossing has been built up with rocks is quite wide and shallow. The water didn't reach passed our knees. Grab a stick for balance and pop on those thongs/sandals if you brought them. Look out for black swans on the water.

Crossing the Wollondilly River

Also, note the rock buttress jutting out of the water to the right as you're crossing...has anyone climbed there? The eastern shore is a lovely place for an early lunch which you may as well take as you'll be needing the extra energy soon enough.

Follow the trail leading away from the river for 2.5km until you come across a minor vehicle track signposted 'Beloon Pass'. Hard to miss.

The climb up Beloon Pass is a longer version of what you've already accomplished with Mt Cookem. The trail becomes fairly indistinct at times, but keep an eye out for blue tape in the trees and rock cairns to find your way. The last section before reaching the top of Beloon Pass is a legitimate scramble, made interesting by the weight of your packs. Be wary of grabbing hold of loose rock and investigate any foot or hand placement in this last push. Spot each other if you're feeling uncomfortable.

The views of the upper Wollondilly from the top of Beloon Pass are breathtaking. 

Why does Rozza look cool here...

..while I look like I'm taking a poop?

Savour the moment, write an entry in the log book and prepare for a pretty un-enjoyable couple of hours following a damp and overgrown gully...

I just vomited in my mouth a little bit remembering this.

From the pass, a track heads east into the gloom. Follow it ENE into until it intersects with another dry watercourse coming in from the north.

** This next part is pulled directly from Bushwalks in the Sydney Region: Volume 2, because we got lost here and ended up setting camp on an uncomfortable hillside to wait for the morning. **

I couldn't handle the sloping tent and slept on a more comfortable rock.

“..just across the junction locate and take a track which follows the N side of Travis Gully for about 50m. It then veers away and winds down ENE to join with a 4WD road. This will take you to the Nattai Road [sign-boarded] – Vineyard Flat at 89.8km”

Camp at Colleys Flat.

Day 6 – NATTAI ROAD

** We also got incredibly lost this day by following the Allum River for 5km thinking it was the Nattai...don't do that. We ended up having to climb quite high to take some bearings using natural landmarks.  Accordingly, take these directions with a grain of salt as they're based on conjecture. **

Head off down the Nattai Road in a SW direction. You will need to cross the Nattai River five times by a variety of different methods.

We had ran out of tap for blisters at this point, so not wanting to get our feet wet, we found garbage bags over the feet worked quite well. There is plenty of rotten wood next to some of the crossings which is light enough to be man-handled into position as a makeshift bridge.

It was really interesting to see the wheels of time grinding down on the Nattai 'Road'. Once upon a time it would have been used by 4WD, but now it is completely overgrown and impassable to anything and everyone who isn't hiking. 

At Allum Flat continue on the Nattai Road, ignoring a private access road on the right hand side. From here until the carpark at Wattle Ridge is approx 10km, and included in that is a vicious series of swtichbacks which see a gain in altitude of almost 500m...it's a long and sweaty end to a long and sweaty hike, but well worth it!

Mission accomplished. About to tuck into celebratory burgers at Bowral...mmm.

ON FIRE TRAILS:

Walking on fire trails probably puts a lot of people off this hike and is a likely reason for such low numbers of people taking part. Yes, plodding along like a pack mule along a dirt road can be mindless and boring at times...but we found it a great mix of mindless plod, route-finding, 'activities' (ie. river crossings & mountain climbings). The Katoomba to Mittagong is good hike to ease your way into proper route finding by splitting up the tricky bits.

Also, there's something to be said about slipping into a hypnotic rhythmn of a multi-day hike and the length of the Katoomba to Mittagong seemed to mitigate the time we spent on fire trails. You get into a zen-like state, discuss outrageous hypotheticals and generally enjoy the feeling of turning your brain off and let your legs carry you on.

For some reason I also found it immensely satisfactory to be able to stop wherever the hell we wanted, pitch the tent, start a fire and then cook up some grub as the stars came out. In my mind's eye we resembled a couple of itinerant drifters from 'Down and Out in Paris and London'...except freeze-dried meals taste better than boiled cabbage or whatever those poor guys we eating!

Sydney Climbers and the cheeky day trip

Good mate L. Mock made this GIF out of footage from last Friday's climbing effort at Heathcliff in Blue Mountains. It's a pretty accurate distillation.

We're so lucky to live as Sydney-siders, to have such magnificently epic multi-pitch climbing only 100km as the crow flies from our doorstep. Just don't expect to get home anytime before nightfall.

WHAT THE GIF DOESN'T SHOW:

-Wake up early (but 30 mins later than planned)
- 2.5 hours driving to Blue Mountains in peak hour traffic
- Coffee stop at Katoomba
- 45 min bush whack to base of Heathcliff
- Three-legged break dance behind a rock to get rid of coffee gut (optional)
- Climbing....climbing...climbing
- 1 hour heavy bush bash after getting lost on the way back to car
- 2 hours driving home in more traffic


Also, Google Maps have totally created a false economy with their ridiculous travel time estimates (1h 25m from Central Station to Katoomba...are you freakin' kidding me??).

But despite all that, the biggest reason for coming home late every time you go to the Blueys is that you were just having too much damn fun climbing.

"My name is Laurie Mock, I like rock climbing!"

Solomon Islands

Some footage of a very special night at the edge of the world.

Arnavon Islands, Solomon Islands.

ERMAHGERD, TURTLES!!! from Fantrails on Vimeo.

Half Dome - Northwest Face

For any sport climbers out there dreaming of the bigger stuff, I came across this bloke Daniel Chao's Picasa album documenting his 2010 climb up the Northwest Face of Half Dome in Yosemite National Park, USA.

Great photos, very informative commentary...inspiring stuff!

Check out the story here.

Photo credit: http://www.flickr.com/photos/patrick-smith-photography/3665442326/

Bane's Prison - Climbable?

Figure 1

Remember the scene in 'The Dark Knight Rises' where Batman does push-ups to fix his broken back and then free-solos his way out of the foreign prison/hellhole where Bane left him?  It looked hard but definitely not impossible.

But exactly how hard? What grade would Bane's Prison Direct get?

Here's the only other picture I could find on the web, it looks like it was taken before shooting had commenced and the set was dressed with all the grot and grime.

We all know that the grading of routes can be very subjective.  Who hasn't failed on a climb that should have been in your wheelhouse, if the grade was to be believed? The reality is that every route has its own historical, personal and environmental context which forces the prospective climber to take the grade listing with a grain (sometimes a lump) of salt.

Sandbagging is common, but part of the fun.

So let's start with what John Ewbank, developer of Australia's grading system looks for when grading a climb and apply that to Bane's Prison:

'Grading takes the following into consideration. Technical difficulty, exposure, length, quality of rock, protection and other smaller factors...the climb is given its one general grading, and if any of the other factors is outstanding, this is stated verbally in the short introduction to that climb.'

Technical difficulty:  If you were leading this as a sport route and there was adequate protection all the way, you would have to say it doesn't look so bad.  Notice the long shadows on those holds to the left of Figure 2, they seem to be fairly juggy.  There also seems to be a uniformity to the whole climb as it spirals around and around to the top, this repetition would lead to more economy and efficiency of movement.  Stay close to the wall, concentrate and keep movements simple and you're almost there.

Towards the end we have the crux of the climb - the past-the-point-of-no-return dyno Batman has to make to get from one ledge to another (I don't know why he couldn't find a better alternative, but let's assume there wasn't one). That's a big move.

But let's not forget one important point: Of the only two known successful ascents, one was made by a 10 year-old girl, so how hard could it be?

Exposure:  This would be pretty hairy.  While there wouldn't be any gusts of wind threatening to blow you off the wall, it's gotta be scary to look down and only see the ever-shrinking circle of the prison floor.

On the plus side, you have all the prisoners chanting 'Rise! Rise!' and Hans Zimmer's suitably bombastic score thumping in your ears to get you psyched.

Length: It's longish and, as noted above with the uniformity, sustained throughout. 30-40...maybe 50 metres?

Quality of rock: Decades of condensation and slime buildup (the weezy respiration of hundreds of convicts) would have made the holds greasy as hell and hard to grip with much certainty.  This problem would be significantly worse down the bottom of the hole where there is less - or no - direct sunlight.  Climbing conditions in this respect would actually get better as you ascended.

Protection: No-o-o-o-o protection!  After falling 10 metres with a hemp rope and getting the shit beaten out of kidneys, Batman decides the only way to let go of his fear and send Bane's Prison is to free-solo the bastard.  Not to be recommended...unless you're this guy.

That guy.

Other factors: In the end, the only thing Batman had were the rags he was wearing and a big pair of bat balls.

No shoes with hardened, moulded rubber to help with edging, no chalk to combat those greasy walls, no rope...nothing.

Add to this five months of eating poorly nutritious prison gruel and an iffy back - Batman would have been in very poor condition to undertake such a climb.


Verdict: Free-soloing a slimy dungeon with no gear and a broken back is awesome, I couldn't do it. The thought of climbing without a rope physically grosses me out.

However...

If this route was safely bolted,
if the walls were dry,
if you had some nice rope,
and if you were in possession of a pair of climbing shoes, chalk and a decent set of draws...

..then I'm thinking Bane's Prison could be a long and challenging 22 (6c,5.11a).


GRADE:  

Bane's Prison *  22 (6c,5.11a)  ✋

Located at bottom of deep, dank pit.  A more popular descent than climb.  Hard start up sometimes slippery and crumbly walls.  Up and trend carefully following obvious diagonal holds. Crux 10m from top, insane dyno-leap! Two previous ascents, both free-solos(!)

45m T al Ghul, 1984

Bungonia Gorge, NSW

Entrance to the Gorge,

Leaving the carpark with a backpack carrying a picnic lunch, Sara and I descended (or scrambled down) a steep and rocky track into the deepest limestone canyon in Australia.  For the next five or so hours we found ourselves in a strange new world.

We had entered the eerily atmospheric Bungonia Gorge.

The gorge is located on the Southern Tablelands of New South Wales, 190km southwest of Sydney and 35km east of Goulburn in the Bungonia State Conservation Area.  Driving down Mountain Ash Road, and all the properties with 'For Sale' out the front of them, you get a sense that Bungonia was once a much larger and more happening place than it is today.  

The Red Track is a great half-day hike...if your knees are up to it.

We followed the 'Red Track' down a very steep descent to the floor of the canyon and it's once you've made that knee-spanker of a descent that to the bottom of Slot Canyon that you can begin to appreciate the uniqueness of your surroundings.  The 275m vertical limestone walls that shoot up from either side probably has something to do with this.

Old climbing rope on the South Wall

There is quite a bit of climbing to be had on both the north and south walls of Bungonia Gorge, which can be accessed either from the bottom of the canyon or through rappelling.

Also a bit of caving to be had as well...

However, our trip was strictly a hiking mission.

For more information on these climbs, visit theCrag.com...seems to be a lot of trad but also some bolted (hard) stuff as well.   


From here the track disappears and it is up to you to make your way as best you can amongst the giant boulders and rock pools which choke this 1km-long section of the canyon.  It's hard work, but great fun as you feel like you're in an over-sized maze with plenty of options for progression but also plenty of dead-ends as well.  

It's a good idea to take your time on the boulder section as it would be very easy to slip and break an ankle (or worse) when hopping across boulders the size of a modest house!

Great.....

...big...   

                                       

..rocks.

Another thing to take notice of before attempting the hike is the risk of flash flooding.  The position of the trees in these photos illustrate just how high the water can rise and how powerful that torrent can be.

Eventually we found a nice spot for lunch (Backpacker's Pantry Beef Teriyaki, tea & chocolate) and a bit of relaxation, before embarking on a sustained hour of steep ascent to complete the circuit back to the car.

Why so steep?! WHY?!?!?!?!

Sara and I didn't take a map with us having done the walk before, but even without previous knowledge I think it would be pretty hard - if not impossible - to get lost completing the Red Track Circuit. If there's one thing the hideous limestone quarry is good for, it's as an effective landmark to get your bearings from.

When you see this sign, you know you're near the end of the canyon.

However, as shitty as the quarry is when you're back up the top and trying to capture the perfect panorama (see below), it's position to the north is too high up and far away to ruin the ambience or experience of hiking through the gorge.

A large limestone quarry to the north scars the landscape.

Park fees are $7 per car/per day.

Pierce's Pass, Blue Mountains

To quote the official Blue Mountains guidebook, "Mega, Mega, Mega!"

That is how it describes the often overlooked Pierce's Pass climbing area and I would have to say they're spot on.

Pierce's Pass is full of the longest and most varied climbing in the Blueys and it's great to see things from the other side of the Grose Valley for a change as well.

Can you believe we're actually getting some good weather?!?  With the amount of rain we've had over the past months, you'd think we're living in Dreary Old England, not Australia.  In fact, there was so much sun last weekend that I had to wear a cravat like the Fat Guy from Masterchef to avoid neck burn-age.

There's plenty of walking tracks around the plateau and down to the valley floor, there's a big waterfall, and if you're lucky like I was, you might see a couple of loco base jumpers flinging themselves off a cliff or two!

But back to the climbing, everything is better than you expect; the views from Wall's Lookout, rappelling to the valley floor, the quality of the rock when you're climbing back.  Ok, now I'm gushing, just head up there.

A chap by the name of Mike Law has put together a brilliant PDF that contains topos, photos and route guides.  It's good enough to print out and take by itself, or you can use it in conjunction with the guidebook to get a solid bearing of the area.

It's on the Sydney Rockies awesome website: http://www.sydneyrockies.org.au/climbing/newroutes/pierces.html